Cheshire Restaurant Guide

Ex-Manchester House chef, Aiden Byrne’s attractive pub is cutely situated opposite said St Mary’s Church in one of the scenic commuter towns on the Cheshire/Greater Manchester borders. Steaks, burgers, pies and the likes of lobster and chips typify its quality gastrofare; and they also serve pizza and snacks from their garden ‘shack’.

“French cuisine at its best!” – “the eclectic menu leaves you spoiled for choice” at this “comfortable restaurant (ideal for romance)” opened in 2000 by chef-patron Olivier Troalen, who arrived in England to work at the French Embassy in London before heading north, where he hopes to be acknowledged as ‘the Cantona of cooking’. “Service is speedy and you certainly won’t feel disappointed with either the standard or size of the dishes”.

“Just don’t let them grow out of their premises!” – this small neighbourhood spot inspires limited but very enthusiastic feedback for its excellent cooking. Miarisuz Dobies is the chef (with his wife front of house) and – though the cooking is somewhat Frenchified – some dishes come with an interesting central European spin reflecting his heritage.

‘Casual fine dining’ is the promise at chef Joseph Rawlins and Gaëlle Radigon’s “contemporary”-feeling establishment – a converted farmhouse, next to a fine, very ancient church (Europe’s oldest with a timber frame) not far from Alderley Edge. Wilmslow-born and Paris-trained Joseph produces a modern French menu, and fans say dishes can be “inspired”.

“Theatrical presentation” is a longstanding feature of the Pear family’s stalwart fixture of four decades’ standing, whose ‘Dinner at 8’ package was an early adopter of the tasting menu format, with a 7-course menu delivered in a single sitting (you arrive at 7.30 pm). Fans say “Covid hasn't affected the consistent high quality of this unique dining venue. And to the famous ‘Dinner at 8’, can be added the growing popularity of their afternoon tea”: “a choice of gentleman’s or lady’s gives a useful mix of sweet and savoury, including the legendary homemade desserts. Ample portions (take-home boxes cheerfully provided), well served and a good range of teas''.

“My Sri Lankan colleague rates it as the closest thing he’s found to his mum’s cooking!” – Don Buddhika’s local restaurant has brought some unusually authentic cooking to this chichi Manchester ’burb.

“A very special place indeed” – this modest-looking backstreet bistro that chef Gary Usher opened 13 years ago in the Chester suburb of Hoole has achieved cult status and set the template for his crowdfunded Elite Bistros group, which now has six venues across the North West. “Always our choice for celebrations, delicious meals and superb service”, it’s “guaranteed to give you a great time”.

Nick Johnson’s “wonderfully vibrant” transformation of a covered Victorian market into an artisan food hall has a “great atmosphere”, and the “mix of food from different suppliers means that in a group, everyone has something they want to eat”. “The novelty has gone but it’s still holding up standards” – although “queues are too long” and it can be “a battle to get a table”.

A “perfect little Italian restaurant with a fantastic buzz” serving “outstanding authentic pasta dishes – no frills, just great food” – accompanied by “jugs of good inexpensive wine”. It’s “great fun”, but you “need to book ahead” – or trek into Manchester, to the larger offshoot in Ancoats.

No reports as yet on this boutique hotel dining room run by game expert Mike Robinson. Dry-aged beef and venison are brought from maturation cabinets to be cooked over a flame grill and, on paper at least, this is one of the city’s more interesting dining options.

Owned by the Duke of Westminster, and sitting right next to the iconic Eastgate Clock, the city’s flagship hotel has a plush (if windowless) main dining room, which in March 2022 was relaunched after a £250,000 refit. The change was to mark a turning of the page from its time under Simon Radley, who held one of the North West’s more enduring Michelin stars here from 1998 till his retirement in mid 2021. So his replacement, Elliot Hill (arriving from Liverpool’s Panoramic 34) has big shoes to fill. He made a start in November 2022, winning three rosettes at the AA Awards… although under Simon, the hotel held four. Our limited initial feedback on his start here is all positive (if too limited for a rating), including for afternoon tea in the adjoining lounges – “attentive staff and excellent sandwiches and pastries... they also serve a Gentleman’s afternoon tea, with crispy haddock bloomers, and coronation chicken on spiced curry bread”.

It’s “always a pleasure” to visit this plush hotel, where the more relaxed, pavement-side Brasserie is “great for lunch” in “beautiful surroundings”; and where you’ll be looked after by “attentive staff with an eye for detail” – whether you’re after “casual dining (homemade soup and roll are delicious)” or an “à la carte menu (fish dishes are good)”. For the Grosvenor’s famous afternoon tea, head to the plush Arkle Bar & Lounge.

“Great Spanish food” – including plenty of “tasty fresh seafood” – has made such a success of Joe & Ben Wright’s ten-year-old wine-and-tapas spot that they closed Joseph Benjamin, their original bistro next door, to concentrate their resources on it in 2021. It’s a “small (and you can’t book), but lively place with attentive service and a great atmosphere”. The brothers now have spin-offs in Altrincham and Salford.

With a “good location near the racecourse”, this Georgian pub from Brunning & Price is “divided into cosy rooms and alcoves”, and excels for its “traditional pub food” including “fabulous fish ’n’ chips”, “good pies and specials” – “but the key is in the sides: excellent samphire, sauces, creamy mash and more”. The name honours prominent local architect Thomas Harrison, who designed the building as his own home.

“Looking for a fantastic, well-priced supper? Look no further than The Grosvenor Arms at Alford”. This rather grand country pub (“library, conservatory, bar and snug”) on the edge of the Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire estate maintains “consistently high standards despite being a member of a large chain” – Brunning & Price – for whom this was the group’s first property.

This “glitzy shed” has a strong reputation locally for its “great breakfasts”: “excellent omelettes and light dishes or more substantial fare, if that's what is needed to set you up for the day. Good coffee is served with iced water – a simple touch but so rare!". Later on, it’s “bistro in style with service all day” – there’s “reduced tapas-type options since Covid but still a choice of well prepared specials if you want more than a salad or sandwich”, plus “a carefully chosen selection of wines and beers or a fun choice of cocktails”.

“A cut above the average pub” – this popular old village boozer occupies an “attractive location” opposite twelfth-century St Wilfrid’s Church. Everything is “cooked superbly accurately and well seasoned, with delicious layers of flavour”. It’s “not cheap”, but nobody is complaining.

Opening autumn 2023 in the town's Cultural Quarter, this steakhouse, grill and bar aims to shake off the macho image of the genre, with a combination of chic interior design and a selection of plant-based and fish dishes alongside prime steaks. If successful, its founders plan to open branches across the northwest.